Jeff Daniel’s Jeeps | Message Board

Here are some helpful pointers:

""My tub was rusted pretty badly and I had to weld some supports to keep the tub straight. I could have bought another tub, (but since I always seem to do everything the hard way.)
I welded some floor supports and seat frame while the tub was flat on the concrete. I also took measurements and welded "allthread" in place for the tub mounts so that it only takes one person to tighten all the mounts.""

""meant to mention, know I need to at least brace the tub w/cross members before taking it off, and some people have suggested doing as much welding repair on it before removing it as possible.""

""When I started removing stuff, I found a lot of parts that needed replacing, I ended up doing more than originally intended ""

""This would also be a good time to rhinoline or even galavanize your frame""

""need to reiterate about braceing the body when it comes off, my passenger side door does not close right now must have tweaked it when it went back on cuz the door closed fine while it was on the ground.""



PAPASmurf

These are all quotes from CJ guys but a lot of it will gold true if you remove that tub.  Some guys mentioned a CJ rebuilders Guide book that tells all about disassembling the Jeep in the first chapter.  Maybe there is one out there for YJ's????

Good luck and have fun

-B







ALSO CHECK THIS OUT:  THIS WAS POSTED ELSEWHERE FROM SOMEONE

Tub Removal Instructions
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seen a few posts and been asked about taking the yj tub off, so instead of replying to individual posts, i'll post it here!
this is assuming that the jeep was running and driving. some steps can be skipped (removing the grill for example) but this is the way i have removed mine, twice last year...... 
also, i had a 5 speed, so i do not know the way to remove the gear shifter from an auto, if you even need to??
here goes.....
remove the hood, and support rods. disconnecting the wire for the under hood light.
remove the header tanks on the driver side inner fender for the rad overflow and washer fluid. take the hose off the rad and keep it with the header tank. unplug the 2 plugs that go down to the washer tank, and disconnect the hoses. you can normally tie the hoses together and keep from losing the fluid.mark the hoses! 1 is front and the other for a rear wash/wipe.
remove the fender/grill lights and unplug all light connections.
the wiring will end at the passenger side fender light. pull the wiring from that point, thru the square hole in the grill, and feed it all back around in front of the rad, up thru the driver side hole, and back to the bulkhead plug.
unplug the ecm and the big plug on the bulkhead that goes to the pdc and the lights. rest these plugs on the motor. unplug the connector that goes thru the firewall. the plug itself is under the dash. put it ontop of the motor
reach under the speedo, unplug the speedo cable if equiped. be carefull not to break the plastic, you need to push in on the 2 sides and it will come out.
remove the driver side fender. the bolts run down the edge of the fender to the tub, there are 4 i think, plus 2 support braces.
the bolts to the grill are inside the outer fender at the front.6 i think and a brace, all 1/2" heads.once all bolts are out, raise and remove the fender.
remove the battery, battery tray, and unclip the pdc and slide it forwards toward the motor. same bolts for the passenger side fender. after the bolts are out, lift and remove.
unclip all the wires that are secured to the bulkhead/firewall. unplug all sensors that are mounted there, labeling the plugs and wires. unscrew the ground wires.
check that all cables/wires are free of the firewall and bulkhead.
the grill has 1 big bolt at the bottom, in the center. unbolt that and lift off the grill/rad (after draining the rad/tranny cooler if used and removing the hoses from the motor...)
thats the front end taken care of!
unbolt the steering joint at the top joint, freeing the steering wheel.
under the dash, unclip the clutch and brake pedals.
unbolt the brake booster assembly (4 bolts) and either remove or support so not to break or damage the lines. the master cyl and prop valve will stay with the booster.
unbolt the clutch cylinder from the bulkhead and support.
undo the throttle cable from the pedal and pull thru the hole in the firewall.
undo the emergency brake cable from the pedal and pull thru the hole in the floor.
under the driver side rear corner, disconnect the fuel filler hose and vent from the tank. unplug the electrical connector for the tank.
remove all exhaust hangers from the underside of the tub.
if you have an aftermarket bumper that has a back up light, remove the wires to it.
remove the roll bar inside the tub, and of course the doors. (that is a lot of weight to pick up!)
remove the gearstick on a manual tranny. the haynes/clymer manual will detail this step. remove the rubber boot, and the 2 metal plates that are fastened to the floor by the gear shifters.
get the biggest impact gun you can get, and remove the body mount bolts!!!!
there are 3 pairs running down the side of the frame rails.
1 pair is under the tub, above the front of the fuel tank.
the 2 rear ones are at the sides of the rear bumper.3/4" head bolts if i remember right. the bolts are 2 or 3 different sizes, so remember where they go!!!
double check all lines and cables under the tub, if one or two are ziptied to the tub, cut the ties.
crawl all over the tub, front, under, and back to make sure everything is undone.
get 3 good friends and each pick a corner! the front is by far the heaviest!!
all 4 of you lift straight up, then walk back towards the rear of the jeep and put the tub down after it has cleared the rear end. this is a lot easier than trying to lift it over the motor and all the wires etc. the fuel filler lines should be on the tub, so be carefull not to damage them. you can remove the lines altogether, but there is no real need.
i think that about covers it! if i forgot something, chime in and correct me.
timewise, the 1st time will take @a day from start to finish.
i would highly recommend new body mounts and bolts.
if you hav a major issue with a body mount bolt. i would impact the snot out of it and fix it when the tub is off. you can stand the tub on its side on some old carpet and get to the bottom of it pretty easy.
good luck, may the force be with you!!
the 1st body off....
1st time.jpg

2nd time, with a new frame and motor....same damn year!!!!!

motorframe.jpg

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=358797

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=76457                         ****THIS ONE LOOKS GOOD!!!****

Also try www.jeepforum.com and www.jeeptech.com for info. Jeeptech is a wealth of technical info , really cool site and jeep forum is an all Jeep Forum with many many members. It also has lots of good info.

Good luck with your YJ project and thanks for the Hard top , that is awesome!! Give me a shout in a couple weeks about your steering column and I will stop over and get that squared away for ya. Keep in touch , it was nice meeting you!!